Kansas is home to the only Agricultural themed scenic byway. The Land & Sky Scenic Byway which runs along Route 27 from Sharon Springs to St. Francis is a great drive to explore some of the agriculture and farming that Kansas is famous for. Wheat, corn and of course, sunflowers grow here and the byway is a great place to witness these crops in all the seasons. Arikaree Breaks and the Giant Van Gogh painting (see below) are both sights along the Land and Sky Scenic Byway.

One of of my favorite stops on my visit to Western Kansas was the historic tiny town of Nicodemus. Nicodemus is a National Historic site and an early settlement of freed slaves from the South. Hundreds of families from the South moved to Nicodemus in the 1870s and 1880s and created a small community.

I loved learning about the history of this small town and the hearty group of settlers, lured to this new landscape by the promise of community, freedom and land. Nicodemus provided a safe place for settlers looking to escape the some of the violence experienced by Black folks in the South during that period. Residents were able to own land and farming was a prosperous occupation.

At its peak, the town boasted several hundred residents, a bank, stores, churches, businesses, newspapers and a school. Today approximately 20 people still live full time in Nicodemus and each year descendants gather for a homecoming celebration to reconnect to the community and its history and culture. Current and former residents take a lot of pride in their tiny town.

Nicodemus is worth a stop on your Kansas roadtrip. Be sure to pick up a walking map to explore the town’s history and many of the buildings that still stand.

Most people are familiar with the badlands of South Dakota, but did you know Kansas has its own badlands? Three diverse areas in Western Kansas welcome RV and other visitors to explore these stunning landscapes where rock erosion has left behind some unique formations.

Castle Rock

Castle Rock in Quinter, KS reminded me a bit of a tiny and less colorful Bryce Canyon. Sandstone structures rise out of the earth hiding millions of fossils underneath. (Note: you’re not allowed to dig for fossils, as Castle Rock is on private land.) Get out and walk around trails and bring your camera along for some great rock shots.

Monument Rocks

Monument Rocks is another sandstone formation, jutting out of a seemingly flat landscape. A big keyhole offers the perfect photo op. This is a great place to explore and walk around. Monument Rocks is on private land and visitors are allowed during daylight hours only. No camping or fossil digging is allowed.

Little Jerusalem State Park

Kansas is proud of its recently acquired state park, Little Jerusalem. This is another great place to view monumental sandstone rock formations and undersea fossils. Two hiking trails allow you to explore the perimeter of the rock formations, but unlike Monument Rocks and Castle Rock, you can’t actually climb around and explore the actual rock formations without a nature guide. Plan ahead and request a guide by calling 620-872-2061.

Where can you camp near Little Jerusalem State Park?

Camping is not allowed inside Little Jerusalem State Park, but Historic Lake Scott is just seven miles away and offers lots of great camping.

The Arikaree Breaks are a series of deep ravines and gullies that run for about 36 miles in North Western Kansas. The terrain is rough and beautiful. Bring your camera! Several pull-off spots are suitable for a scenic lunch stop. Because the Breaks are on private property, you can’t hike around, but you can drive and stop and enjoy the views from several public roads, most of which are gravel. Be mindful if it’s snowing or raining.

Kansas is known as the Sunflower State, so it’s fitting that one roadside attraction is a giant replica of “Three Sunflowers in a Vase,” by Vincent Van Gogh. At the intersection of Interstate 70 and Highway 27, this place is worth a stop for a selfie moment.

One of my favorite spots in Western Kansas was the quirky Fick Fossil & History Museum in Oakley, Kansas. This free museum has a unique combination of fossils, all from within a 40 mile radius of Oakley and original artwork of Vi Fick. Fick was a multi-discipline artist who incorporated fossils into each of her unique pieces of art.

This area of Kansas was once an ocean bed. Millions of fossils can be found here and there are quite a few special ones inside the Fick Museum including a Xiphactinus Audax, a 15-foot long prehistoric fish and the skull of Tylosaurus Proriger, a 30-foot marine reptile.

Also inside the museum is a complete sod house and other historical features including more than 1,000 photographs of life in early Kansas. This museum is not to be missed!

Oakley, Kansas claims to be the birthplace of Buffalo Bill. Stop in the cultural center to learn all about this Western legend and get your photo taken next to the giant 16 foot tall Buffalo Bill bronze statue.

George F. Sternberg was a famous paleontologist in Kansas who discovered troves of fossils dating back 80 million years to when Kansas was an ocean. The Sternberg Museum in Hays, Kansas houses many of those found fossils and tells the story of ancient and modern Kansas. The most famous of those is the “fish within a fish” fossil, which is truly something to behold. A giant Xiphactinus fish swallowed another fish whole moments before it died and the entire carcass of of both are preserved and on display.

The tiny town of St. Francis is a sweet spot to check out in Western Kansas. The small downtown has an art museum, great fried chicken at the gas station and a motorcycle museum.

St. Francis City Park offers free overnight camping for up to three days. Electric hook-up sites are $25. Three days is just enough time to check out town, tour the Arikaree Breaks and get dinner and a shower at the local truckstop.