Kansas Sampler Foundation founder Marci Penner shares the unforgettable people, places, and lessons discovered while exploring every corner of the Sunflower State
Photography by Dave Leiker & Andrea Etzel
Do you have the heart to be a great Kansas explorer? It takes more than a map, a spare tire and a full tank of gas. You’ll need an eye for subtle beauty, an appreciation for easily overlooked details, and—most of all—the hunger for a good story.
When people sense they have an avid listener, they tend to open up. They share not just directions or history, but deeper stories of their secrets and dreams. A bit of curiosity and interest in others’ experiences can enrich any road trip.
The final necessity is simple: Keep your heart open to adventure. Watch for signals that tell you when to pull over and search out a stone-arch bridge tucked beneath the roadway. Feel the stillness of a sanctuary when you walk into an open church with no one there. Stay curious and get lost. That’s often where you’ll stumble onto the most beautiful views or the most intriguing detail.
Over the years, these tenets have served me well as I explored rural communities, a journey I began with my dad, Mil Penner, in 1990. These road trips shaped me as a person, leading to several Kansas guidebooks, and inspiring my dad and me to start the Kansas Sampler Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving and sustaining rural culture.
Among the foundation’s most well-known projects are the Kansas Explorers Club, the 8 Wonders of Kansas, and the Kansas Guidebook for Explorers 1 & 2, which I co-authored with the incomparable WenDee Rowe. Together, we visited all 625 incorporated cities in Kansas to search for stories and hidden gems—a trip I loved so much I did it twice.
This legacy all began with what I felt on the road. Only on those stretches of pavement and backroads could I meet people from all walks of life: a grocery store owner who dissolved into tears after telling me who shopped in her store—and who didn’t shop; a waitress who led us to a café’s back room to show us where she’s certain a ghost still lingers; a store owner who showed us the refrigerator holding the community’s hidden liquor stash. You can’t plan these stories. You have to earn an invitation.
The following stories represent just a handful of the hundreds of special experiences I’ve had on the road. You can have these adventures, too. The wonders of Kansas are right under your nose if you take the time to look.
When the Doors Are Locked
When WenDee and I visited the small community of Cuba, we had one goal: to see the Cuba Community Hall, home of the famous annual Rock-a-Thon and the heart of this Czech community. The three-story building stood locked, but we refused to give up. We crossed the street to the Cuba Cash Store and explained what we hoped to do.
We ended up chatting with the new owner for a while, exchanged some “shop talk” and dropped the names of a few people we knew in Cuba. Before long, the owner handed us the key.
We let ourselves in and wandered the halls. We sat in the famous rockers, took a few pictures, soaked up its character, then locked up and returned the key.
This is what I love about exploring small towns. If you can blend into rural culture, trust comes easily. And when it does, doors tend to open—literally.
Don’t Drive on Runways
After visiting Byers, WenDee and I wound through Pratt County on the backroads. We weren’t sure where we were headed, but we trusted our sense of direction. The pavement led us straight through a feedlot, which was surprising … but then came the real shock.
We realized we were on the runway of the Pratt Regional Airport. The road had led us right onto it.
The moment this registered, we made a quick U-turn and sped away as fast as we could. We half-expected red flashing lights and sirens to chase us down. Thankfully, they never came. The whole experience thrilled us, but I think we’ll stick to the roads that don’t require a pilot’s license.
Face Your Fears
Sometimes I get lucky enough to explore Kansas with friends from across the state. This time, Andrea Etzel and Jess Hoffert from Kansas Tourism joined me. Our first stop was the Mitchell County Courthouse in Beloit. Built in 1901, this Richardsonian Romanesque beauty remains the only courthouse in Kansas with a screen door at its main entrance.
We headed straight to the county treasurer’s office window, just a few steps from the entrance, and struck up a conversation about our admiration for the screen door and four-faced limestone clock tower.
That’s when Brian, the maintenance man, walked by. The women at the treasurer’s office suggested he take us up the tower. We welcomed the unexpected offer with an eager Yes!
The climb felt a bit precarious as solid steps eventually gave way to narrow, creaky ones, with only open space underneath. The final push put us on a ladder leading straight into the clock tower. Somehow, we made it.
The view over Beloit took our breath away. Even better, we got to inspect the clock’s inner workings, sign the wall and ask Brian as many questions as we wanted. It was another thrill—but, this time, without the fear of a law enforcement pursuit.
It Doesn’t Get Better Than This
You never know who holds the key to an unforgettable moment. For us, it was Elmer. When WenDee and I stopped by the Kansas Rural Water Association office in Seneca on our way to St. Mary’s Church in St. Benedict, we mentioned where we were headed next to our friend Elmer.
By the time we arrived—maybe 10 minutes later—Elmer had already called ahead. He reached Marlene, the church organist, and asked if she might come and play for us.
Marlene had been in the middle of canning, but she set everything aside. She took off her apron, left the rest of the work to her husband and son, and met us at the church. She apologized in advance for her appearance and hoped we wouldn’t mind if she played in socks. Then she asked what we would like to hear.
My mom had been a church organist, so this instrument already held a special place in my heart. I requested my mom’s favorite song—the one she always played with gusto: Bach’s Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desiring.
Marlene began to play.
We stood in the church balcony near the organ and took everything in. St. Mary’s is known for its lavish interior and award-winning renovations that carefully preserved its painted patterns, bands and friezes across walls, ceiling and columns. That day, with just the four of us standing still in the open space, the music filled every curve of the sanctuary.
It was one of those rare, unrepeatable experiences, and it happened only because we knew Elmer, a quiet connector at the heart of this place.
Dodging Cattle and Storms
The most unpredictable part of exploring is the weather. I’ll never forget the time we headed to Point of Rocks, a prominent natural bluff in the Cimarron National Grassland. As soon as we crossed the cattle guard in Morton County, the sky began to darken. The wind picked up, and rain slapped against the windshield. Still, we couldn’t bring ourselves to turn around and miss that breathtaking sight.
What made the moment even more electric were the cattle—free-range, unbothered and ambling along both sides of the dirt road and straight across it. They had the right-of-way, so we eased forward. It felt like a movie scene, with storm clouds rolling in, cattle grazing, and the vast, open grassland stretching endlessly beneath a massive sky.
Finally, we reached Point of Rocks, which was once a lookout for Santa Fe Trail travelers. We walked to the edge and peered down at the well-worn path where wagons had once rolled. It’s hard not to imagine what those travelers felt, facing similar storms with nothing but canvas and courage.
Some experiences settle deep and stay with you. This humbling moment was one of them. I can’t fully convey the enormity of what that expansive sky brought us.
That’s it for now. I’ll see you on the road.
Sampler Update
As of January 2026, Marci Penner, founder and director emeritus of the Kansas Sampler Foundation, and WenDee Rowe, longtime project manager, have stepped into advisory roles; Simone Elder has taken over as director. The Kansas Explorers Club (kansassampler.org) will continue, as will the newly launched online Kansas Guidebook (kansasguidebook.org).
Lessons Learned
These are only a few of my favorite adventures, and they could happen to anyone who has the desire to veer off the main road, the patience not to rush, and the curiosity to uncover lesser-known stories. Here are a few more lessons I’ve learned along the way:
- The original from-scratch cooks still work their magic in small-town cafés.
- You’ll find some of the best chicken-fried steak and homemade pies in the most rustic of diners.
- After you find an interesting detail in a town, head to the post office and use it as your leading question. Buy stamps as a thank-you for their intel.
- Spending money, even just a little bit, in a small-town business goes a long way for morale. So does offering genuine compliments.
- Cemeteries reveal deep insight into a small town’s culture. Seek out unique gravestones and interesting epitaphs.
