Photography by Doug Stremel
Kansas’ brilliant night sky is the stuff of dreamers and visionaries
Although the weather was dreary and soggy when Horace Greeley, the editor of the New York Tribune, visited Kansas in May 1859, he was enthralled by its night sky. “Kansas brags on its thunder and lightning and the boast is well founded. I never before observed a display of celestial pyrotechny so protracted, incessant and vivid,” he wrote.
When traveling, Greeley would write about what he saw. On his trip to Kansas, he wrote of the unexpected scenery and the wildlife—prairie dogs, antelope, bison. But it was the night sky that most caught his attention.
Through the years, many of us have shared his enthusiasm. True Kansans love the wide and open spaces—the expansive horizon that inspires so many of us to dream about what life can be. Kansas, at night, is both subtle and majestic.
Those who don’t know us—those who consider Kansas flat and boring—have most likely never seen our pollution-free, as-God-intended night skies. With low levels of artificial light, especially in rural areas, Kansans are often treated to majestic views of the Big Dipper, the full moon and even the planets that dominate the horizon.
Almost as exciting as the constellations are the sounds. On some nights, you can hear the hum of distant combines cutting wheat. On others, the migration of thousands of birds as they cross over, or the howls of coyotes calling to one another in the distance.
There are many places in Kansas that especially capture the night’s beauty. Don’t be afraid to travel the back roads. Here are a few spots we recommend.
Mushroom Rock State Park
Ellsworth County
As early as 1867, one of the most famous 19th-century photographers was attracted to Mushroom Rock. Alexander Gardner was a renowned Civil War photographer who documented significant moments on the battlefield. He also photographed President Abraham Lincoln a few months before his assassination. In 1867, Gardner was commissioned to photograph the Kansas Pacific Railroad. Along this route, near Kanopolis Lake, Gardner photographed Mushroom Rock.
Today it is known as Mushroom Rock State Park, and it is the smallest state park in Kansas. Resembling giant mushrooms—the largest of these rock outcroppings is 27 feet across—these Dakota formations are the remnants of beach sand and sediments of the Cretaceous Period, a geological period that began 144 million years ago (and ended 66 million years ago).
During the day, it’s the destination of many curious sightseers and children on school field trips. But at night—far from city lights and sounds—it is the perfect place to gaze at the stars and galaxies.
Coronado Heights
Lindsborg
A natural platform of Dakota Formation sandstone, Coronado Heights in Lindsborg features a scenic overlook on a hilltop more than 300 feet above the surrounding Smoky Hill River Valley—the highest point in the area. At this historic landmark, generations of Kansans have picnicked, flown kites, climbed, stargazed and waved to cameras.
It’s believed that Spanish conquistador Francisco Vásquez de Coronado visited this site during his 1541 expedition in search of the legendary golden cities—and that it’s where he gave up his fruitless search. The little stone castle that sits atop the majestic hill was built in 1936 by workers who were a part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Works Progress Administration program.
Kansas-born poet William Stafford once said of Coronado Heights, “When we touch the rock, a little cold shiver begins; this is the place where Coronado found that cities of gold are dust, that the world had led him north beyond civilization, beyond what was good. … And right down onto this prairie grass he fell. His helmet tumbled right here.”
Although the park closes at 10 p.m., Coronado Heights is a great place to view the night sky from sunset until closing.
Enjoy a special late night sky viewing with a special presentation from National Geographic photographer Jim Richardson, hosted by the Cosmosphere and Lindsborg Convention and Visitors Bureau. Date to be determined.
visitlindsborg.com/StarryStarryNightatCoronadoHeights
Lower Fox Creek Schoolhouse
Strong City
Part of the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, the Lower Fox Creek Schoolhouse is a one-room schoolhouse near Strong City, off K-177. In its heyday, it was a place of pioneers. In operation from 1882 to 1930, it was where children gathered to pursue an education, as well as a spot for local families to socialize in the evenings and on the weekends. Today, it is a formidable reminder that one-room schools were once the heart of a community.
Kansas had more than 8,000 organized school districts by the turn of the 20th century, and most were one-room schools modeled after Horace Mann’s Common School Movement. But after World War II, larger and fewer school districts became the standard. Rural children were encouraged to attend schools in nearby towns instead.
When you visit this site to stargaze, the Lower Fox Creek Schoolhouse acts as a foreground against the night sky. Look for the Milky Way. It’s not unusual to see satellites or even meteors streaking across the sky. And, if a thunderstorm is working its way through, be like Horace Greeley and watch for celestial pyrotechny.
more stargazing destinations
Arikaree Breaks
In the far northwest corner of Kansas lies what many folks call our state’s mini Grand Canyon. The Arikaree Breaks is known for its rugged canyons, caves, valleys, creeks and mesas. Just 2 to 3 miles wide, it cuts diagonally across Cheyenne County and stretches west into Colorado and north into Nebraska. The breaks are located on private land, but visitors can travel the back roads to experience this unique beauty without trespassing.
Red Hills
Located west of Medicine Lodge, the Red Hills, known for its red soil and rocks, offers plenty of buttes and valleys, along with iconic Old West views of buffalo, cattle, open ranges and cowboys—lots and lots of cowboys. It is also a solid spot for dark skies and meteor showers. Stay on the back roads to see what the prairie might have looked like a few centuries ago.
Cheyenne Bottoms and Quivira National Wildlife Refuge
Nearly half of all North American shorebirds migrating east of the Rocky Mountains stop to rest and feed at Cheyenne Bottoms and Quivira National Wildlife Refuge. Visit these two wetlands of international importance during the spring and fall migrations to be greeted with a cacophony of geese, sandhill cranes and ducks, all calling and cackling. At dusk, wave after wave of waterfowl visit the waters to roost and take flight at dawn.
