Photography by Dave Leiker
A honky-tonk in downtown Emporia is drawing people to the dance floor for some good ol’ fashioned fun
Honky-tonk. It’s a word you’ve likely heard, but what exactly does it mean? A honky-tonk is a no-frills dance hall that offers a place to unwind after a demanding day. There is never a dress code, the drink of choice is often cold beer, and there is always country music to enjoy—although rock, blues and soul may be included in the mix. At a honky-tonk, you can cut loose and dance like no one is watching or simply sit on a barstool to soak up the sights and sounds.
Over the generations, honky-tonks have evolved from rowdy dives on the outskirts of town to hip bars on main streets, drawing a mix of locals, students, cowboys and “suits” alike. Honky-tonks are noisy and messy, but that’s the appeal. You go for the music, the vibe, the beat.
The Bourbon Cowboy in downtown Emporia has become a slice of honky-tonk heaven.
Saddle Up
Susan and Jason Brinkman met in 1990 at the Cowboy Palace in Emporia, one of Kansas’ original honky-tonks. Susan, a bartender, and Jason, a DJ, were both students at Emporia State University with professional goals that did not include the crazy hours and challenges of running a bar. After graduating, the couple moved to Minneapolis for a while before returning to their hometown. In Emporia, they raised their son, developed their careers, and became heavily involved in the community. Susan served on the school board, was elected to the city commission, and served as mayor for a time.
Along the way, the Brinkmans started to miss the music and camaraderie from their youth. They wanted to add fun—noisy, messy fun—back to their lives. So Susan came up with a new career goal: to bring new life to downtown Emporia by revitalizing an old building with a new purpose. It was a daring financial decision, but big dreams often require big risk.
She found the perfect downtown building (formerly a JCPenney and later a storage facility). It had good bones, but layers of carpet covered original hardwood floors that seemed made for dancing. After extensive renovations—and expenses that seemed to multiply by the hour—Bourbon Cowboy opened in 2016.
“We wanted to create a place for live music and DJs, with a dance floor and pool tables, darts, pinball machines and vintage arcades,” Susan says. “We wanted to create a place where everyone was welcome, and people of all ages could come together.”
Honky-Tonk Heaven
Kansas’ only certified woman-owned bar or nightclub, Bourbon Cowboy is a 6,000-square-foot, two-level country dance bar and pool hall, and it has become an integral part of downtown Emporia. Susan went through the certification process with the Kansas Department of Commerce to become certified as a Kansas Woman Business Enterprise.
Located at 605 Commercial Street, Bourbon Cowboy hosts local pool leagues every Tuesday, an indoor disc golf putting league on Wednesdays, and karaoke on Fridays. House DJs play weekend nights, and live bands often perform later on Saturday evenings. (The bar typically sticks to country music, including performances by many honky-tonk bands.) It doesn’t serve food and doesn’t charge cover for anyone over 21; anyone 18–20 is welcome to dance, play games and socialize, sans alcohol. Pool tables are free for play on weeknights. Doors are open from 6 p.m. until 2 a.m., Tuesdays–Saturdays.
I asked a university student playing pool what brought him in. “It’s right downtown, so we can directly walk from campus,” he says. “There’s no cover, which is a big deal, and free pool!”
“I like the music and to dance,” says another college student I met. “You can jump up whenever a song comes on that you love and just dance. You don’t have to be asked and you don’t need a partner. I brought my grandma here for her birthday, and we had some serious fun.”
“I guess I’m a regular,” says 49-year-old Chris Linebarger. “I’ve been coming for about six years, and now my son works here. What I like is meeting people I wouldn’t otherwise have met. Some folks come early and stay until about 10 p.m., and some show up at 11 p.m. and stay until 2 a.m. I can come anytime and grab a stool. There’s always something happening that’s fun to watch.”
“A college town needs to provide places that keep kids in town,” Susan says. Welcoming spaces that help college kids decompress are a benefit to the community, she adds, and help students feel connected to their university as well as to the city overall.
Bourbon Cowboy is a mom-and-pop establishment, with a staff of about 18 young people. Susan and Jason both have professional day jobs, but this honky-tonk is more than just work. When I asked Susan about the hardest part of owning a honky-tonk—and what the most satisfying part was—it turned out her answers were linked.
“A nightclub environment with 300 people can be stressful and intense, with surprises to deal with on any shift. Whatever can break down will always do so at the most inconvenient time,” Susan says. “But working with young people—both staff and customers—is the best. We’re a team. We rely on each other. We make this fun together.”
“It’s keeping me young,” she continues with a grin. “You can’t be a couch potato in a honky-tonk.”
“I started working as a bartender with zero experience,” says Brenna Truhe, who worked at Bourbon Cowboy for six years. “We always had a goal to give our customers ‘uncomplicated good times.’ You can dance, play pool, meet up with friends, make new friends … everyone is treated respectfully and as an equal.”
“Is it like Cheers?” I asked Susan, referencing the 1980s TV show that popularized the camaraderie of working in a bar.
“Yes, actually, it is,” Susan says. “We’re a safe place for learning about life—many different facets of life. And that includes knowing a lot of people’s names.”
More Honky-Tonks
The Hitching Post
Humboldt
This upscale tavern looks like it came straight out of a 1950s Western. Serving up a variety of beers, nonalcoholic cocktails and southeast Kansas’ largest selection of whiskey, this honky-tonk is open Friday and Saturday, 6–11 p.m., often featuring live vintage country music.
Gayle’s
Topeka
With live music (most) Friday and Saturday nights, 8 p.m.–12 a.m., this neighborhood bar also hosts karaoke, Sunday and Monday, and open music jam nights every Thursday, 7:30–10:30 p.m.
Club Rodeo
Wichita
Kansas’ largest night club with DJs, classic country music and a mix of today’s hit music, this honky-tonk includes dancing, monthly live concerts, half-price drinks and no cover before 9 p.m. Open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, 7 p.m.–2 a.m.
Guitars & Cadillacs
Overland Park
Although it’s too big to be a “classic” honky-tonk, this bar features live music every Friday and Saturday night; free dance lessons every Thursday and Friday, 6:15–7 p.m. (country swing two-step) and 7–8 p.m. (line dancing); and country jam nights every first Sunday of the month, 6–10 p.m.
Buster’s Saloon
Sun City
This bar was first opened in 1946 by Buster Hathaway, a World War II veteran. After an extended hiatus, it reopened in 2012. Although it doesn’t have a designated dance floor, people dance whenever the music calls. Buster’s Saloon is a restaurant and bar that occasionally features live bands, in addition to playing music from the speakers. If you want to dance, bring some friends and have a party.
