I have always been fascinated by the rise and fall of places. I’m talking about spots in our world where hope and optimism brought people in droves and then, somehow, failed to keep them. These are places where the world literally changed pace – and then reverted back to nature. If you have ever driven the Kansas Turnpike near El Dorado, you came near one of these places, and I’ll bet you never knew it.


At the sound of the clip-clop of hooves on pavement and the jingle of bells, I could feel the excitement building amongst the crowd standing around me on a street corner in downtown Lawrence one chilly morning.